Showing posts with label North Wales & Border 2021. Show all posts
Showing posts with label North Wales & Border 2021. Show all posts

Thursday, 17 June 2021

North Wales & Border 2021 - Historic Ludlow and its Castle

https://www.ludlowcastle.com/

 
Carrying on from my previous post, see link below, Carolyn and I recently enjoyed our first trip away in six months following a long long winter of lockdown restrictions, and as the visitors drove along the motorway heading south-west for the May Bank Holiday weekend, we drove in the opposite direction and based ourselves just outside of Shrewsbury to explore the delights of North Wales and the border area, which after a very enjoyable day in Anglesey saw us retrace our steps back to Ludlow, the next day, after stopping their briefly on our way up.


We were captivated by Ludlow on our first visit to the town and made plans to come back, with the first place to visit being the ruins of the castle, built by Walter de Lacey around 1075 AD, soon after the Norman Conquest, and who was given lands in Herefordshire and Shropshire, becoming one of King William's trusted Marcher Lords controlling the borders with Wales.


The castle played a key role in the civil strife of the Barons War between Empress Matilda and Stephen of Blois and in the ensuing struggles of the 12th century seeing this key fortification change hands to rival claimants and again in the Second Baron's War of the 13th century between Henry III and Simon de Montfort, seized briefly by Simon, but recaptured by Henry's supporters led by Geoffrey de Grenville, and was the base from where Prince Edward rallied his supporters in 1265 to begin his campaign against de Montfort that culminated in the Battle of Evesham later that year.

View of the outer bailey of Ludlow Castle looking from the main gate towards the inner bailey beyond.

Geoffrey de Grenville would continue his occupation under Edward and would develop the castle by rebuilding the inner bailey, adding the Solar and Great Hall in the North Range, and linking up the castle outer wall with a town wall some time between 1250 to 1290, to form a continuous ring of defences around the town.

The Keep and Judge's Lodgings overlook the bridge over the moat into the inner bailey

The castle passed into the hands of the powerful Marcher Lord, Roger Mortimer, 1st Earl of March with his marriage to Joan de Grenville, 2nd Baroness Grenville in 1301 who further extended the buildings and the Mortimer's would control the castle for over a century before it passed into the ownership of the Crown becoming a key Yorkist possession on the Welsh border during the Wars of the Roses.

Arms of the House of Mortimer
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Arms_of_the_House_of_Mortimer.svg



The crest over the arch leading into the inner bailey and Judge's lodgings are of Sir Henry Sidney who was president of the Council when the new Tudor lodgings were completed in 1581

Ludlow and its castle would develop into the key centre of administration for Wales and the borders with it's role confirmed as the seat of the Council of Wales and the Marches, between the 15th and 17th centuries, governing the nearby lands and overseeing the courts of justice for the region and seeing a gradual renovation of its buildings for its role with luxuriously appointed buildings added to accommodate key personages when staying there.

A view of the inner bailey from the Judge's Lodgings with the round Chapel to the right foreground and the North Range beyond.

The ruination of the castle would follow the English Civil War after its occupation by Royalist forces throughout the struggle and seeing a brief siege at the end of the war that left the castle to fall into disuse and the abolishing of the Council in 1689 with its buildings left to decay through neglect until landscaping in the 18th century and interest from the new tourist classes of the 19th century saw its restoration as a visitor attraction through to the modern day. 

The round nave of the Chapel of Saint Mary of Magdalene is all that remains of the chapel built in the 1100's, with the foundations of the rest of the building visible in the grass to the right, that connected it to the wall of the Inner Bailey.

The ruined apartment buildings around the Solar and Great Hall, hint at the former glory of these luxurious rooms with multiple fire places and walls long without their covering of plaster and drapes leaving the visitor to imagine their previous splendour.

The steps leading up to the door of the Great Hall with its stone arched windows dominate the back of the Inner Bailey.

Moving outside and to the upper battlements reveals the former fortress that Ludlow was as a commanding fortification in the Welsh Marches befitting a Welsh Marcher Lord, with its imposing position overlooking the fast flowing River Teme.



The roar and babble of the cascading River Teme, just visible through the trees beyond the wall, echoes over the battlements.

The castle today provides a romantic backdrop for wedding parties and other courting couples


Sally Ports facilitate an aggressive defence from Ludlow's garrison

The path around the back of the North Range Wall overlooking the steep cliff above the River Teme


Of course there's more to Ludlow than its 11th century castle which was more than evident by the buildings that make up the town ranging right through British architectural history and items such as the magnificent Russian 24-pounder naval cannon, setup outside the castle's main entrance after capture at the fall of Sevastopol during the Crimean War 1853-56, and later delivered to Ludlow, one of dozens of such prizes taken and awarded to towns throughout the UK and its dominions, for their support of British forces in a very hard fought war.


Sevastopol was and is the principal Russian naval base on the Black Sea and became the main focus of Allied forces, laying siege to the city for over a year whilst struggling to isolate it from the interior.

British siege batteries bombarding Sevastopol - William Simpson

The town was shattered by a prolonged Anglo-French cannonade, followed on the 8th September 1855 by a French assault that took the key Russian position dubbed the Malakhov redoubt.

Interior of the Redan redoubt after the fall of Sevastopol 1855

The simultaneous British assault on the neighbouring redoubt, the Redan, failed, but that night the Russians evacuated the south side of Sevastopol, retreating to the north, leaving the base in the hands of the Allies, with its naval base facilities, fortifications and vast quantities of stores and ordnance.

The war was ended by the Treaty of Paris, March 30th 1856.


Russian cannon captured during the Crimean War, have a special place in British military history in that the metal from such pieces was used in the creation of Britain's highest military award for valour, the Victoria Cross.

The Ludlow cannon has some interesting features that reveal an interesting back story, with the gun bearing the markers of its identity from the double headed Imperial Russian Eagle atop the barrel to the makers mark on its trunnions, with the right hand trunnion identifying it as a 24-pounder frigate gun, weighing 122.5 poods, about 1 ton or 2000kg and cast in 1799.


So it's a ship's gun probably dismounted from a warship in the harbour and incorporated into the defences of the town.

Additionally the Cyrillic letters inscribed on the left trunnion, 'ALKSND-ZVD' give information on its origin, namely the Aleksandrovskii Zavod or Alexander Foundry, in the town of Petrozavodsk, three-hundred miles north of St Petersburg.

The foundry was established in the reign of Empress Catherine II and was operational in 1774, and in 1786 an Englishman by the name of Sir Charles Gascoigne (1738 -1806), a former director of the Carron Company in Falkirk, Scotland, where the famous carronade was invented, was appointed to run it, with several other Britons employed by Catherine to help update her military as she began to modernise her empire.

The gun is clearly one of the Gascoigne pieces, identified by the letters 'D. GASKOIN' and his smooth bore guns were known to be well made and hence still in service in the Crimea despite the introduction of more modern rifled guns.


Heading into the town from the castle you are immediately aware of the history around you in the buildings and as a 'soft-southerner', I am always aware of the architectural heritage that the more northern parts of the country are blessed with, in places such as York, Chester and here in Ludlow, as soon as you get away from towns that were well within range of Hitler's Luftwaffe, that very sadly destroyed similar buildings in places like Exeter and Plymouth in my own neighbourhood, with only a few examples still surviving.


As mentioned in my previous post, there are more historical blue plaques set up on the walls of notable buildings in Ludlow than you could shake the proverbial stick at, with over five-hundred historic buildings in the town.


The 13th century Rose & Crown, serving ale for over 600 years!

A relatively 'new-build' for Ludlow, the Feathers Hotel, built 1619


With all the medieval rule sets such as Baron's War and Never Mind the Billhooks being the latest fashion going through the hobby, a few building references such as Ludlow may well come in handy for recreating the odd medieval town hovel.

Broad Street and King Street timber-framed shop built circa 1404



Dinham House is situated close to the walls of the castle and is another major historical landmark in the town being a former residence of Lucien Bonaparte, among others, the younger brother of Napoleon who was captured by the British whilst trying to take a ship to America in 1810.

Lucien would later return to France in 1814 following his brother's abdication and a reconciliation during the 'Hundred Days' in 1815, being made a French Prince by Napoleon, but not recognised by the returning Bourbons following Waterloo, leaving him to return to Italy where he died in 1840.

The palatial Dinham House


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lucien_Bonaparte


Given my focus on all things Napoleonic naval at the moment I couldn't help noticing the blue plaque below.


Midshipman Vashon entered the navy at the tender age of thirteen in 1755 serving aboard the 28-gun frigate HMS Revenge, rising steadily through the ranks to Post Captain and Flag rank reaching Admiral of the White and being knighted, whilst seeing service through the Seven Years War, American War of Independence, French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars, having an island off Washington State, USA named after him during the exploration voyages of George Vancouver, who gave his name to the Canadian city on the Pacific west coast.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/James_Vashon


Ludlow is an amazing place to visit for anyone with the slightest curiosity in British history as well as being a very attractive town which I know Carolyn and I have only scratched the surface off on our one day wondering around the town centre and castle, and a place we will no-doubt visit again if in the area.

The 13th-14th century Castle Lodge

References referred to in this post:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Listed_buildings_in_Ludlow_(northern_area)

Next up: New additions join the French and Spanish collections of model ships with L'Orient at anchor and three more Spanish third rates ready for their photo reviews and further adventures on the North Wales border continue with a visit to the Telford Canal at Wrexham and the glorious Stokesay Castle as we began our journey home.

Thursday, 3 June 2021

North Wales & Border 2021 - Roman & Megalithic Anglesey

Legio XIIII 'Gemina' make an opposed landing on Anglesey, c.60 AD - Angus McBride

Last week, Carolyn and I decided to take advantage of the relaxed travel restrictions ahead of the May Bank Holiday to travel up to Pentre, a little village outside of Shrewsbury where we stayed in a very nice  'air bnb' to base ourselves for a little bit of exploring the delights of North Wales and the border area.

A little stop-off in Hay on Wye during our travel up to Pentre, where I managed to make a few additions to the library.

With six months of lockdown we, like the rest of the country, were eager to get out and about and as this was a part of the UK that we both had places on our list we wanted to see, together with a lockdown habit of enjoying long walks, we planned to combine the two and spend a few days walking and exploring the area.

The Wheatsheaf Inn built in 1792, one of the seventy pubs that were in the County Town of Ludlow in that year, that have since reduced over the intervening centuries, seen here next to the historic gatehouse on the old town wall encompassing five hundred historic listed buildings.

No 'Plastic, Make Believe' interiors here. Imagine if these old walls and timbers could talk! Not having been in a pub for over six months, popping into the Wheatsheaf on our way up to Pentre made a very pleasant detour to our journey 

After driving up on the Sunday afternoon with a stop off in Hay-on-Wye, the book capital of Europe, where Carolyn indulged my curiosity to see what military history additions to my library I might discover, more anon, with some book reviews to follow, and a pleasant pint in the oldest pub in Ludlow only recently reopened for the return of visitors, we got settled in at Pentre; and then on the Monday our first day exploring took us off down the A5, London to Holyhead road, to Anglesey with the picture above by Angus McBride firmly lodged in my mind as I imagined seeing this last refuge of Druidism in Briton, before Seutonius and Agricola changed the history of these islands for ever.

The area of our little post-lockdown expedition, with our base just outside Shrewsbury indicated and the drive along the old A5 to Anglesey with the three areas of interest we planned to visit that day.

The weather on the Sunday and Monday had been rather indifferent with drizzle accompanying our stroll around Hay and Ludlow and a chill-out day to follow, walking locally, which encouraged getting under cover to drink and read books, but for our journey to Anglesey on the Tuesday, God was in his Heaven and the sun shone bright amid azure blue sky as the temperature started to climb.

After crossing the Menai Strait, that separates the island from the mainland we continued on to Holy Island and Holyhead where we planned to check out the remains of Roman occupation and explore the last stop in Wales before reaching Dublin across the Irish Sea with the South Stack Lighthouse marking the last point of land and with a very nice four mile cliff walk thrown in before heading back to the Strait and calling in at an amazing Megolithic burial mound that harks back to the pre-Roman times on Anglesey and Britain as a whole, with Tolkienien descriptions of 'ruins in the landscape' and 'Barrow-wights' springing to mind with monuments like this no doubt inspiring his literature.

Caer Gybi - Holyhead Roman Fort


The 260 square mile island of Anglesey (Ynys Mon in Welsh) is situated off the north-west coast of Wales and is the largest island in Wales and the seventh largest in the British Isles.

It is linked to the mainland over the Menai Strait by the Menai Suspension Bridge designed by Thomas Telford in 1826 and the Britannia Bridge, built in 1850 and replaced in 1980.

The principle town on the island is Holyhead on Holy Island with a ferry port that normally handles over two-million passengers a year travelling too and from Ireland.

The English name for the island is obscure, but it is referenced as such by Viking raiders in the early tenth century and later adopted by the Norman invaders of Gwynedd, however the Welsh name has a much earlier and established heritage, first recorded by the Romans in the Latinised form 'Mona'.

The Roman Conquest of Britain 43-84 AD
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Roman.Britain.campaigns.43.to.84.jpg

It is the Roman and early period of Anglesey that the island is famous for and historically associated with the last stronghold of the Druids in Britain and where their religion and influence was stamped out and crushed by the Romans in two invasions of the island in 60 and 78 AD, and places Druidism alongside Christianity as the two religions that were actively opposed and suppressed by Imperial Rome.

It appears not much of the early Roman occupation of the island is visible with the first century Roman fort at Aberffraw underneath the current village, excavated in the 1970's, revealing a thirteen foot wide  V shaped ditch and earthwork bank, later added to with another similar U shaped ditch some five and a half feet deep with evidence of abandonment and another medieval ditch added at a later date, this together with some Samian pottery shards.

The above ground archaeology harks back to the latter days of Roman occupation as Britannia became the target for raids from Ireland and the Continent, requiring the building of coastal defence strongpoints and watchtowers ready to to repel such incursions, which I looked at in a previous post on a visit to Portchester back in 2017, built to repel raids along the Saxon shore.

 

The only remains of the Roman 3rd - 4th century fort in Holyhead are the familiar herringbone style stone and mortar walls that surround the church of St Gybi, with one long side of the enclosure overlooking the natural harbour. 


British Campaigns of Agricola 78-84 AD
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Agricola.Campaigns.78.84.jpg

With walls almost thirteen feet in height and nearly five feet thick in places it makes an imposing footprint on the town with three corner towers, one original, still standing and with easy parking making it a great place to start our day tour.




One corner of the enclosure was made into a remembrance garden and close by was a poignant reminder of Holyhead's link with the sea and the sacrifice made by two Holyhead ferry boats commandeered for war service in World War One. 
 


A postcard showing the Dublin ferry SS Hibernia leaving Holyhead, later commissioned into the Royal Navy as HMS Tara and sunk off North Africa in 1915 
https://www.dailypost.co.uk/news/north-wales-news/1915-sinking-hms-tara-hmhs-14867538

Another Holyhead Steamship, SS Anglia, seen here as a WWI Hospital Ship before her sinking in the Channel after hitting a mine, bringing injured troops back from France in 1915
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HMHS_Anglia

In Roman and Medieval times the harbour water would have come up much closer to the foot of these old walls, but today's modern harbour facilities lie beyond the main road into town and as you can see the day was set well for our exploring with wall to wall sunshine and blue skies.



Caer y Twr - Iron Age Hillfort/Roman Watch-tower


Just a little way out of the town the road leads to a former quarry that has now been reclaimed as part of a natural park for wildlife that has a visitor centre and carpark that enabled us to grab the walking boots and head out along the cliff paths towards the South Stack lighthouse, the last stop before Dublin, and on the highest ground on the island, above it, the obvious place for a late-Roman watchtower.


On our way out from the carpark we discovered a rather interesting object, that to the untrained eye might have suggested something to do with the former nearby quarry, and with no signs to indicate precisely what it was I started to take a closer look.

The rifling marks on the interior and the breech looking mechanism suggested a naval type of gun and later research shows the remains of gun mountings above the lighthouse so I came to the conclusion that this is one of those former coastal guns.

I could find no references to this piece of military history positioned on the start of the cliff path out to South Stack Lighthouse. It appears to be the barrel of a naval type gun, probably WWI vintage and about four inch calibre with rifling in the barrel and the breech mechanism seen here. There were coastal gun positions overlooking the lighthouse, so perhaps this is one of those guns.


The walk out along the lower cliff path provided stunning views out over the sea, cliffs and back towards Holyhead, but Carolyn was unlucky with her hopes of seeing Puffins that nest in these cliffs.



Irish pirates have been replaced by Irish Ferries, but indicate what an important sea route this remains in modern times.


As we climbed higher the end of the headland came into sight with the lighthouse indicating lands end.


On reaching the end of our first two mile section of our walk the ground suddenly rose still higher and the remains of ancient dry stone walls and more squared off walls with mortar holding things together came into view indicating an area that had once been occupied.




The views back to the town and the fort made this an ideal place to set up a watch point, able to take advantage of an Iron-Age enclosure of dry stone construction to encircle the later buildings with ample opportunity to signal via beacons of any activity on the sea beyond.




Having climbed quite a bit we grabbed a bite of lunch sat enjoying the views and then decided to head back to the car via the higher track that is also used by vehicles supplying the lighthouse.

There is lots of wildlife evident in the area and among the birds spotted on our route back to the car was a very photogenic Stonechat that was very happy to perch close by and have his picture taken.
 
A male Stonechat or Saxicola torquata - A common resident, perches prominently on tops of bushes. Male has black head with prominent white half collar, back and wings are dark brown, streaked black, breast is orange-red. Habitat is heaths, scrubby hillsides and hedgerows. Voice is a metallic chak-chak and jingling warble. What a treat!

This little chap was certainly not camera shy and obviously photogenic!

A real treat to end our walk along the cliffs

The birds weren't the only ones enjoying the perfect flying weather.

RAF Valley, built in 1941, is nearby and home to the RAF flight training squadron using Hawk T2's and Texan T1's for fast jet and propeller aircraft training, and the day was perfect flying weather for Stonechats and Hawks.

Bryn Celli Ddu - 'The Mound in the Dark Grove'


We were feeling pretty tired by the time we got back to the car, but we still had one more place to visit before heading back to Shrewsbury for a well earned curry that evening.

Given the pre-Roman history of Anglesey we were really keen to see the evidence of those early inhabitants and there was one particularly interesting monument that lay close by our route back on to the mainland.
 
The UK abounds in pre-historic sights and monuments and Anglesey must have quite a high number per square mile in comparison to the rest of the home nations, if this sign in the car park close to Bryn Celli Ddu is anything to go by.

If you are interested in prehistory and the monuments associated with the megalithic and Neolithic periods then the British islands abound with burial mounds, henges and stone rows that give a glimpse into the lives of these ancient peoples, and you can check out previous posts on the blog that illustrate the many examples to be seen. 


The burial mound at Bryn Celli Ddu is a stunning example of these kind of monuments and with its name meaning 'The mound in the Dark Grove' had other connotations of the Druids and their Sacred Groves that made this a place I wanted to include in our visit.

The Mound in the Dark Grove, a stunning way to end our day in Anglesey.


The mound is thought to have been built around 3,000 BC and would have originally had an outer henge or earthwork and inner ditch with standing stones within, but today only the outer edge of the  ditch survives, with a few of the upright stones standing within it.


A mix of burnt and unburnt human bones were found within the inner passage of the mound together with quartz pieces, arrowheads, seashells and stone beads.





The passage way into the tomb is somewhat unique in that it has been constructed to allow shafts of sunlight from a midsummer solstice to travel the length of it into the inner chamber, suggesting the solstice had a significance to these people and the Neolithic builders.






Standing close to the mound and gazing out towards the mountains on the mainland beyond, through the nearby trees, made this a very special place to visit and one to remember.


Anglesey was a great place to visit on our first opportunity to get back out exploring and enjoying freedom that we used to take for granted, and I'm looking forward to showing some of the other great places we visited on our week away.

Next up: More reinforcements for my Cape St Vincent Spanish fleet , then part two of this series of posts and I will have another War of 1812 book review to do.