Tuesday, 14 June 2016

Vietnam 2016 - Street Food Tour and Cooking Class


I think it is true to say that you can learn a lot about the culture of a country by its food and as someone who enjoys food and cooking, the opportunity to go on a guided tour of street food vendors was to good to miss and to see and taste the kind of food many ordinary Vietnamese would eat day to day.

We were warned to turn up with empty stomachs and after the first three dishes I was glad I had as this kind of sampling soon has the desired effect and I was struggling towards the end of the tour.


The first dish was a combination of caramelised chili beef, that's the black stuff you can see in the bowl, mixed in with strips of fried rice paper. This was my second favourite dish of the night.

The caramelised beef had the texture of liquorice, but with a great beefy spicy taste that just made the dish as a whole.

Banh Trang Tron (Spicy Stirred Rice Paper Salad)
Banh Tai Vac (Tapioca Shrimp Dumpling)
Next up were the tapioca prawn dumplings followed by the seafood pancakes with an option on squid, prawn or for the veggies in our group, beansprouts as the main ingredient added to a very light rice based pancake batter.

The pancakes got the thumbs up from our group, very nice and definitely recommended.


My Favourite -Banh Xeo (Seafood Pancakes)
Tom liked the Seafood Pancakes dipped in a fish broth - mmm very good
The next stop on our trip was a vendor specialising in the local favourite of rice noodle soup which had chucks of a tuna like grilled fish mixed in with the noodles. The whole dish was complete with a teaspoon, or less if it's not your thing, of diced red chillies seen in the accompanying bowls.

The noodles in Vietnam are great and I really enjoy their light texture which really adds to the local cuisine and I liked the noodle broth, ranking it third in my listing.

Local Favourite - Banh Canh (Rice Noodle Soup)
The next dish up featured the ubiquitous rice batter which when toasted in a thin spread with mixed chopped spring onion and other green veg produces a crispy vegetable spicy poppadom.

These were great hot off the griddle iron, but I have to say I was struggling at this stage. I ranked this dish after the noodles but it was close and I reckon these are a great snack with a few beers in tow.

Banh Can (Barbecue Rice Paper with Egg)
The last dish of egg and rice cakes again featured a white rice batter seen in the metal pan that the lady is ladling the mixture from into the little wooden poaching pots that sit on a bowl of hot charcoal cooking the mixture from below with a pot cover on each to keep in the heat.

To each little pot of batter was added a beaten raw egg and allowed to cook before two of the cakes were warmed though together in the same little pot.

The little cakes had the consistency of what we Brits would describe as a crumpet, something we would toast over an open fire or on the grill with butter to finish.

Banh Trang Nuong  (Egg and Rice Cakes)
This dish was a little to dry and bland for me and really needed something adding to bring it to life, but it was a privilege to see the love being lavished on this simple little dish by the ladies featured in the picture and plenty of locals were queueing up to take a bag of these hot little cakes home for tea as we tucked in.


And finally, some would call the Durian fruit the Marmite of fruits; you either love them or hate them.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Durian

We were due to finish our tour trying Che Chuoi Nuong (Banana and Sticky Rice Pudding), but the Durian came up in conversation as apparently, in some places, you are not allowed to eat this thing in public because so many people find the smell, let alone the taste so offensive.

Needless to say on our way through the market we made a beeline for this item and after getting the market vendor to confirm the one selected was ripe and edible, we took it back to the restaurant to try.


It does indeed have a sickly pungent smell, but I have to say both Will and I found it ok if not something we would order up again; Carolyn, Georgia and Tom on the other hand found the yellow creamy flesh absolutely disgusting and turned their noses up at its approach

The Durian, "Marmite" fruit of fruits gets checked for its quality pre-purchase in the street market 
Next day we were off to the market with our restaurant guide to see what foods were on offer and to buy our supplies which we would use to prepare our three Vietnamese dishes, Starter - Rice Paper Rolls, Main Course - Kho To (Clay Pot Fish, Pork or Shrimp) followed by Desert - Flambe Banana, Mango or Pinapple in the local banana rum.

Arriving at the market in three wheeled cyclos
The variety of spices, fresh vegetables, meat and fish are a feast for the eye in the local market
The market in the morning was really busy as you would expect and it took me all my time to keep an eye on our guide as we picked our way through the crowds whilst continually stopping to admire the produce.

Being a coastal resort the choice and quality of the fish was fantastic
Along the way we got to sample fruit, vegetables and spices that were unfamiliar, whilst getting instruction on how to pick only the freshest and best of what the market had to offer.

Raw sugarcane used to prepare the sugarcane iced juice that refreshed and cooled us on our way round the market
Many of the fresh fruit and vegetables are not seen at home so it was great to have a guide to show what was available and to be able to sample the produce there and then
Once we had all we needed we grabbed a mini-bus back to the restaurant to start our cooking lesson where we were able to watch the various ingredients being prepared and put together, before following the process ourselves.

The Hot Pot ingredients are brought together to marinade
The example of  Pork/Prawn Rice Paper Rolls
The team attempts to maintain the standard
The ingredients for the hot pot were prepared first to allow the meat or fish to marinade in the spice, chilli and fish sauce, whilst we moved on to prepare our rice paper rolls, which by the time we had finished making we were all ready to start eating.

Then we got the hot pot on to the cooker for another fifteen minutes while our hosts prepared the rice and vegetables to accompany it.

The Hot Pot just off the cooker with spring onion added 
The hot pot, pork for my choice, was excellent and we all thought would make a great outdoor meal at a barbecue where the ingredients, pre-prepared would be simple to bring together easily and quickly.

Pork Hot Pot served up with boiled rice and green veg 
We all needed a ten minute break to let the hot pot go down before we started on the desert. The flambe fruit with banana rum and coconut ice cream was a real hit with all of us, but I think my choice of banana was the best.

And to finish JJ's Banana flambe using local banana rum served up with an
orange juice sauce and coconut ice cream - perfect
If you have an interest in cooking or love experimenting with food while abroad, these kind of culinary expeditions are a great way to learn more about the flavours on offer and to add to your range of dishes. The hot pot, sea food rolls and banana flambe are now on my "try back at home list" especially once I have identified a source for banana rum.

Sunday, 12 June 2016

Good Morning Vietnam!

The view of Ho Chi Minh city on Saturday Morning
As regular followers of the blog will know, I like to share aspects of my travels through the lens of a wargamer. I don't think I am unique among practitioners of the hobby in finding a fascination in the military history of places I visit whilst also enjoying the cultural aspects and just being on holiday.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vietnam

Why Vietnam? Well my eldest son Tom is currently here as part of his travelling to Australia and other countries in the far east, post graduation and seeing as his mum and I hadn't seen him since October 2015 it seemed like a great opportunity to meet up and a fascinating part of the world to visit for a summer holiday.

Map to illustrate our route of travel from Ho Chi Minh City to Nha Trang and stops along the way
We started our holiday after a long flight from London via Dubai landing at Ho Chi Minh City on Friday night amidst a tropical thunderstorm with cumulus thunderheads visible from the plane window causing dramatic lighting bolts to arc from the heavens down to the ground producing a stunning spectacle as we approached our destination.

Needless to say we were shattered after the long flight and on checking into the hotel went straight to bed as we had to be ready for our car journey to Nha Trang the next morning at 8.30am.

An old market building surrounded by what look like French colonial buildings, contrast with the more modern city skyscrapers
The next morning saw us getting our first appreciation of Ho Chi Minh City in daylight from the roof top restaurant as we tucked into an "American" breakfast of fried eggs, bacon and toast. I'm sorry after a long day of flying I couldn't face noodles for breakfast.

As a child of the sixties, growing up in the UK with images of the Vietnam War appearing nightly on the national news, this city is still Saigon to me and indeed many of the locals still refer to it that way. Either way this modern city is a curious mix of traditional Vietnamese culture, French Colonial architecture with a large smattering of skyscraper office blocks and advertising hoardings that would be familiar in any 21st Century urban city-scape in the west.

Downtown Ho Chi Minh City, getting ready for another day
One thing that became patently obvious about Ho Chi Minh City on arrival and in the morning as we boarded our car for the drive to Nha Trang is that this is a city of scooters and mopeds. Indeed not only the city but the whole country seems to get around on these versatile means of transport.

I thought I had seen most ways of using these small motorbikes, but that was until I came to Vietnam. Here you can see family groups, four up on a small scooter, mum and dad with two small kids wedged in between, major loads of fridges and electrical equipment, bamboo and masses of palm fronds for building construction, animal cages and large non-descript shrink wrapped cartons festooned on the front and back of these bikes with the rider mounted between or on the load.

This transport together with the busy roads and the US model of undertaking and overtaking is not without risk and we saw two accidents on our travels with goods strewn across the roads and one, with the police in attendance, having a small scooter, pinned under the front wheels of a large lorry, with the rider not is sight, presumably in the back of an ambulance.

The city is a city of scooters and mopeds
On leaving the city, the urban landscape soon gave way to the rural views of Vietnam I was more familiar with; one of paddy fields and rubber tree plantations in their serried ranks of trees with a curious little coconut shell collecting cup at the bottom of each tree trunk.

Heading out into the countryside produced views of paddy fields and rubber tree plantations
In the suburban town of Long Kanh I snatched a picture of the war memorial, with this Vietnamese T59 (Chinese copy of the T54).

The war memorial at Long Kanh on the outskirts of Ho Chi Minh City
Long Kanh was a gateway to the then Saigon for much of the Vietnam War and was the scene of a lot of fighting during it. In May 1971 the Long Kahn province became the responsibility of the Australian forces in their ongoing battle with the Viet Cong as more and more urban centres, once cleared of fighters were placed under the control of South Vietnamese forces.

Australian reconnaissance teams from the Special Air Service Regiment soon identified elements of the D445 Viet Cong battalion and the North Vietnamese Army 3/33 Regiment, and a plan was hatched to drive the enemy troops discovered back towards a US/Australian stop line on the Suoi Ran River with a brigade sized search and destroy mission conducted by the 1st Australian Task Force (3rd Royal Australian Regiment infantry backed up with Centurion Tanks).

The operation began on the 5th of June and was given the name Operation Overlord due to the date relationship to D Day 1944. The Australians soon discovered their enemy well ensconced in a network of tunnel emplacements, with the NVA and VC infantry keen to resist to allow their support elements and supplies to fall back from the area intact.

The NVA forces achieved their mission but it is thought at great cost as they bought the time required while the Australian forces cleared each tunnel complex one by one using their tanks to destroy strongpoints along the way.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Battle_of_Long_Khanh


Well you don't see posters like this at home!
The tank memorial is in fact in place to record the exploits of North Vietnamese forces who in 1975 fought a fierce battle with the South Vietnamese as their forces closed in on Saigon as US operations came to a close and the south fell into its final death throws.

The following link gives an explanation of events with pictures of some of the veterans who took part in the struggle and took me back to a 15 year old watching North Vietnamese tanks entering Saigon as the last evacuees rushed to board US military helicopters to escape the collapse.

http://www.voh.com.vn/40-nam-giai-phong-mien-nam/nhung-nam-thang-hao-hung-ky-1-177913.html

Today the banners and posters that adorn the street furniture leave you in no doubt as to who is in charge now.

Banners and flags adorn buildings and lamp posts
From Long Khanh we took the road that heads across country towards the coast at Phan Thiet and the scenery changed yet again as we encountered a great open road running parallel to vast stretches of towering sand dunes and the occasional fishing village along the route.

In each little harbour were multiple "sampan" like blue fishing boats peculiar to this part of the world.

As we approached the coast we passed through fishing communities
At Phan Tiet, about halfway along our route we stopped for lunch where, being so close to the coast, I enjoyed a Vietnamese fish hotpot with raw ingredients brought to the table to be cooked in a pot over a burner. The squid, clams, chunks of fish and prawns together with noodles and fresh green leaves took no time to cook in the pre-prepared fish broth and made a great meal during the stop.

As we sat to let our food go down, Carolyn noticed we had been joined by one of the locals.

A local who joined us for lunch
As we pressed on to Nha Trang we got more and more glimpses of the azure blue South China Sea pressing up against the palm trees and white sandy beaches that characterise this coastline.

The view of the South China Sea as we got near to Nha Trang
This part of Vietnam has a very interesting ancient history, being part of the ancient Champa Kingdom that held sway for much of the time between the 2nd to the 17th centuries.

Champa soldiers in action depicted aboard ship in one of the friezes that still remain
The Champa were a Hindu culture and are described as a fierce warrior people (the Vikings of the South China Sea) who were in constant struggle with their neighbours the Dai Viet in the north of modern Vietnam and the Kymer in modern day Cambodia.

http://www.britannica.com/place/Champa-ancient-kingdom-Indochina
http://warfarehistorian.blogspot.com/2013/07/angkorian-warfare-1113-1220-conflicts.html
http://www.twcenter.net/forums/showthread.php?218026-Faction-Discussion-Kingdom-of-Champa/page2

The Champa, during these ancient times, were a technically interesting force incorporating elephant mounted ballista, hand held crossbows in among their spearmen and archers, with a minimal amount of light cavalry designed to pursue a beaten foe.

Cham towers at Thap Cham
 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Champa


To day the monuments to this great Vietnamese civilisation are these dramatic red brick towers that dominate the landscape adorned with a splendid array of carvings and intricate pattern work



These particular examples of Champa architecture are to be seen at Thap Cham and we stopped the car to take a few minutes to grab these pictures.



It was getting a little dimpsey (Devonian expression - meaning the light was fading) when we arrived in Nha Trang and met up with Georgia, Tom and Will.

Nha Trang is a beautiful coastal resort designed to attract visitors wanting the sun, sand and sea holiday and our hotel room on the tenth floor with sea view balcony offered a great vista overlooking the seafront and bay.

We went into town for dinner in the evening allowing the youngsters to determine our restaurant for the evening as they have had several days here to find their way about.

On our way back to the hotel, I spotted this marvellous replica NVA topee which I thought would make a fine souvenir of the holiday to take pride of place in JJ's man-cave and provided a nice end to a very pleasant first day in Vietnam.

A souvenir to be added to JJ's Wargames games room
With a break from the traditional wargames related posts I will put up some more impressions of this fascinating country during our stay, with some more posts looking at the Vietnam conflict together with more thoughts on the culture of the country today.

Good Night Vietnam.

Tuesday, 7 June 2016

The Russo-Turkish War, 1768-1774 - Brian L. Davies


Catherine II and the Ottoman Empire

It’s very rare that I buy a book the minute it is published as you are taking a big chance that you may end up being sorely disappointed but I had been eagerly waiting for this book ever since its was announced and so I took a chance. I wasn't disappointed, it is a well researched book written by someone who is an expert on the topic.

But I do have some complaints and so I am giving you advance warning that a rant is coming later on. 

Overall I did find the book a little difficult to read but this was because I had to concentrate a lot more than normal; you see there is a lot of information packed into the book and I found myself constantly re-reading paragraphs just to make sure that I had grasped everything that I had just read. The second reason I found it difficult was that I was reading the book angry and this didn't help my concentration, because of this I thought it better I wait four days after finishing the book before starting to write a review.

The book is split into eight chapters followed by a short conclusion and then a lot of notes. Each chapter is further sub-divided into very handy small two-three page sections which made it ideal for bedtime reading, it also allows you to dip in and out at will or when time is short.

Like most books of this type the content spreads either side of the actual fighting, so it also describes the run up to war and then its aftermath.

Onto the chapters.

Chapter 1 covers Russia just after the Seven Years War has ended, Catherine has only recently come to power and so was in a difficult political situation domestically. The main foreign problem she had to deal with was the failing Poland-Lithuania confederation (just Poland from now on to save space) which became a Protectorate in 1768 and whose strings Russia were in-effect pulling. Both Austria and Prussia were now eyeing it covetously looking to break away sections for themselves and it
was also riven with internal disorder. (See Haidamak Revolt & Bar Confederation). Russia therefore maintained a lot of “support” in the country (around 40,000) and it was also their decision on whose turn it would be to be King that week.


Chapters 2 and 3 both cover the same subject but from different view points. Chapter 2 is about the Ottomans and Chapter 3 is Russia. The short version is that these chapters describe how each state was organised, the changes Catherine put in place to update its administration, taxes etc and the relationships both states had with the various nomadic bands of Cossacks, which were both numerous and fragmented into many different tribes all of whom had their own agendas. Russia’s southern and SW borders included them as semi-autonomous regions and bringing them under control was a long term goal of Catherine’s. The Ottomans on the other hand had the Tartars in Crimea and its surrounding lands and who were a key ally of theirs. All these “Cossacks” had quite happily been raiding each other for centuries however this was now getting a little bit messy in this new modern age, Russia discouraged their side from un-authorised raids and to limit the economic and human damage, a series of defence lines and fortified new towns were built which slowly restricted the Tarter raids.

Chapter 4 is quite short and covers the Russian army and the improvements put in place after its experiences in the 7YW. During the war cavalry had been a big problem for the Russians and so this was completely revamped seeing a big increase in Cuirassiers and Carabineers (basically more heavy cavalry). The army as a whole was restructured, its method of recruiting, pay and conditions were all brought more up to date and new drills and tactics were introduced. Some work was also started on
organising the various border irregulars into the main army and this would be completed later on when the Cossack states were fully absorbed into the Empire. 

Chapter 5 sees the start of the fighting when war is declared by the Ottomans on Russia; The ever increasing build up of Russian forces in Poland was greatly concerning the Ottomans as it was destabilising their northern areas, also the changes that were happening around the Crimea had seen some of the bordering Tarter tribes starting to defect, added to this was increased Russian meddling in Wallachia, the Balkans and Greece, all of this gave the “war party” in Constantinople the ammunition they needed. 

The chapter starts by outlining both sides’ war plans and then moves on to cover the first full year of fighting in 1769 which is mainly the Russian attempt to capture the border fortress of Khotin while trying not to be swamped by the nearby huge Ottoman army. Activities in Poland, the Crimea and the Caucasus are also covered.

Chapter 6, “The Year of victories 1770”. A change in leadership within the main army sees better Russian results as they fight their way down to the Danube. The main battles of Larga and Kagul take place, as a wargamer I would have liked to have had much more detail rather than the couple of pages given to each but the one thing that Davies does excel in is giving you the numbers present and reasonable troop type splits. Meanwhile other armies in other theatres are busy capturing fortified towns in most cases rather easily due to poor Ottoman morale but with the occasional bloody exception. Of more interest we see the Russian navy arriving in the Mediterranean having sailed all the way from the Baltic. Their attempts to stir up rebellion in Greece and their activities against the Turkish navy is quite interesting. There is sufficient information given to organise your own fleet actions.

Destruction of the Turkish fleet at the Battle of Chesma 1771

Chapter 7 covers 1771-1774. Plague strikes in the Balkans which puts a halt to any activity for well over a year and so tenuous peace terms are brokered but which subsequently collapse, when it does all get going again, Rumiantsev the main Russian commander (occasionally this war is named after him) splits his forces and all of them cross the Danube in a sweeping advance, capturing yet more towns they close in on the key Ottoman army staging centre of Shumla. Two of his columns, one of which is lead by an up and coming general called Suvorov combine and win another battle at Kozluji, the main Ottoman army disperses, Shumla is captured without a serious fight and a treaty is signed shortly thereafter. Elsewhere the Crimea is conquered, helped no end by the Tarter forces being in the
Balkans with the main army, the Polish rebels had finally been crushed (mainly by Suvorov which then earned him a transfer to where the big boys were) and the Russian fleet is now blockading the Dardanelles. The first partition of Poland is also covered in this chapter.

Chapter 8 rounds everything up, the peace treaty and who got what etc. It goes on then to cover the changes in Russia over the next few decades, the resettlement of the border areas, the ending of Cossack self rule and the later annexation of the Crimea. That’s about it, (Rant alert, not long now)
The notes section cover forty-eight pages but there is a lot of additional information in them which is what notes should be for in my opinion.

Ok, what wasn't I happy with?

Davies uses a lot of Russian terms throughout the text: destiatiny, uezd, starshyna, obrok, etc etc.etc., after a while I gave up trying to remember what they all meant or even bothering to look back to try and find the original English translation so it became meaningless whenever I came to them. It’s nice to get the cultural feel but whatever point he was getting across was lost on me as I had no idea what he was going on about.

A minor point solely for me but it might be pertinent, the book is approximately 90% on what was happening in Russia and the war fought from the Russian army viewpoint, I had hoped to get more Ottoman information out of this to help with my armies (increase the number of Tartars is about it) but I guess the clue was in the sub-title, it doesn't spoil the book at all, its just my view. It did however really help me answer all the questions regarding my Russians.

Take Cover time, here it is.

On occasions I may have mentioned how books tend to skimp on the maps, now I don’t have a hang up on this, I realise that there can be a problem with space or finding suitable maps relevant to the book. Fair enough, I can even appreciate how things go especially when a book is running tight for time as the maps tend to be the last thing that gets done.

There is one map in this book, which numerous squids have gallantly laid down their lives for in order to supply the ink to print it. They died in vain. It is completely useless and is an embarrassment, let me explain.

Chapter 5 as I mentioned kicks off the war with the whole year spent trying to capture the important town of Khotin, the Chapter heading is called “The Khotin Campaign” I have no idea where this is as it’s not on the map. None of the battle sites are marked, also there is no indication of any of the key actions, fighting down through Wallachia until finally reaching the Danube, then capturing the key crossing points, the numerous sieges and stormed cities along the way and then across the river to capture the main town of Shumla that in effect ended the war. Nothing. Then there’s the 2nd army fighting its way down the Black sea coast in support, likewise there is no indication of any of the towns they fought over or captured. Take the vital key fortress of Bender which for centuries had been the linchpin of the Ottoman defence and which they finally managed to capture? Not a sign of where it was. In the end I looked it up on Google, apparently Bender is a Robot character in a popular cartoon series, that was more help than the map in this book.

The activities of the Russian navy, their crucial battle at Cesme Bay, the Greek campaigns. I have no idea where any of this took place.

Poland, which was the main cause of the war, the uprising and then partition, maybe a map showing who got what would have been nice, nope, sorry.

The Crimea which after all was the main objective for Russia (along with Azov), well Kerch is at least on the map but nothing else and it’s not as if much happened at Kerch that warranted its appearance.

So as I read the otherwise excellent description of the war, in a book written by an obvious expert, I was just getting angrier and angrier as every location mentioned in the text was not to be found, how can you follow a campaign when you don’t know where the activities are taking place?

I could go on but probably shouldn't. Oh yes I am!

Worst of all there are twelve completely blank pages at the end of the book, I suggest you get some crayons and with your eyes closed, randomly squiggle a map yourself of Russia and the Balkans on these pages and then stabbing wildly make some dots. If you even get a couple of towns roughly in the right place then you have made more of a contribution than the map that comes with this book.

I need to now go and lie down for a little while in a dark room with a wet flannel on my forehead and take some more of Mr Steve’s “special” pills.

Paperback only
Readable pages 248
Plus Notes 48 pages
Best price 2nd June 2016 = £18.24 Abe books

(Apart from the map this book is the book on this war - from a Russian viewpoint).
I actually quite liked it.


This has been a Mr Steve production.

Next Up:
JJ's Wargames will be posting from foreign parts in the next posts looking at a part of the world that has had a very turbulent history in the latter decades of the twentieth century and somewhere I am very excited to be seeing, and am looking forward to sharing with everyone.

Sunday, 5 June 2016

Zulu!


This weekend saw the annual gathering in North Devon to play "Zulu!", the planned scenario that has been getting play-tested over recent months at the Devon Wargames Group.

It is hard to believe that twelve months has gone by since we were gathered together to play Chain of Command in Korea, featuring the UN forces stand on the Imjin River in 1951.

Colonel Charles Knight Pearson - 3rd Buffs

This time we were transported back to 1879 and the commencement of the British invasion of Zululand, and more precisely to the adventures of Number One Column, 2,000 men under Colonel Charles Knight Pearson and their march towards Ulundi via Eshowe as they set off on the 18th January to cross the River Nyezane, only to find themselves attacked by 6,000 Zulus under the command of Chief Godide kaNdlela Ntuli, on the 22nd Janauary, the same day as Number Three Column met disaster at the Battle of Isandlwana.




Our scenario picks up with half the British column having crossed the Nyezane and, after setting up a bridgehead camp, has set off with a punitive group on the road to Ulundi to attack and burn a nearby Zulu village.

At the start of the march no Zulu forces had been spotted, and the British commanders were keen to send out cavalry patrols to explore the higher ground above the road and river, whilst the column point made their way towards the Zulu village.

Scenario Map and planned movements
To replicate Pearson's ignorance of exactly where the Zulu threat was we set up the Imperial troops with no Zulus on table or in sight of their column.

This set up allowed the Zulu "horns, head and loins" battle formations to manoeuvre off table, moving twice as fast as on table to allow them to position themselves the more favourably when they chose to enter the table or when they were forced to by the sight of their burning village exciting the younger less controllable warriors to attack, as was the case in reality.

The game set up well under way
The Zulu plan was to allow the column to advance close to the village before looking to encircle it and destroying it away from its supports at the river.

However the Zulu plan did, again as in reality, not quite come off and the left horn attack swung out away from the head, heading for the camp, causing problems for the Zulus as the battle progressed.

The British/Imperial Commanders snatch a final Orders Group before the start 
So with the bulk of the British force camped around the river, the punitive column set off up the road towards the Zulu village, sending out cavalry and NNC (Natal Native Contingent) troops to their left to cover the broken ground.

As the Imperials neared the village compound, the regular troops halted to cover the NNC infantry as they made for the huts with flaming torches to hand.

Zulu skirmishers ready to defend their village against the invaders
As the NNC neared the village a fusillade of shots rang out and several Natal Natives fell as the order was given for them to rush the buildings, being protected by a group of Zulu skirmishers.

The head of the column with the Naval Brigade to the fore, with Royal Marines and Naval artillery
British regulars patrol the perimeter of the bridgehead camp
The firing up ahead attracted little attention from the pickets guarding the British camp, although just to be on the safe side, Imperial cavalry were dispatched to reconnoitre the nearby hills. whilst the other NNC contingents were directed to start bringing the supplies across.

Colonel Pearson directs troops to their positions (Nice figure Nick)
The British camp is alive with activity as the column moves out up the road to Ulundi
As camp life continued happily unaware of the situation developing up the road, the NNC company within the village soon found itself engaged in hand to hand combat with the young inexperienced Zulu skirmishers, soon getting the upper hand and driving them back as they completed their mission of burning everything in sight.

Suddenly the NNC men stopped and looked towards the nearby hill to see swarms of Zulu warriors moving at the jog trot towards them, initiating an immediate retreat back to the scrub and the nearby support of Pearson's Imperials,

The attack on the Zulu village stirs up a "hornets nest" as angry Zulu warriors press forward to get to grips with Imperial troops
NNC troops are engaged by the Zulu skirmishers as their supporting impi's move up
The appearance of the warriors of the right horn was quickly followed by the other Zulu battle groups and the alarm was transmitted along the column back to the British camp as men were summoned to arms.

Suddenly Zulu impis are observed along the high ground overlooking the road and the camp
Camp life was suddenly transformed when the Zulu left horn appeared on the hills beyond the camp. Immediately men were told off to manhandle the wagons into a laager, whilst NNC contingents quickly grounded any stores they were carrying as they assumed their battle lines amidst shouting NCOs.

The order goes out to circle the wagons
Meanwhile to delay and forestall any Zulu advance the Imperial cavalry units rode off in the direction of the threat to form their picket lines and cause as much discomfort as possible.

Natal Hussars move out to contest the advance of the Zulu hoard
The waves of Zulu impis looked formidable and unstoppable from the ranks of the Imperial infantry, but the experienced men calmly went about their tasks encouraging the younger soldiers, whilst about them men of the Royal Marines and the Naval Contingent formed line amidst the rocket, gun and gatling batteries at the head of the column.

Usuthu!, as the right horn Zulu force advances
The impis jog trot down the slopes towards the Imperial troops on the road
It was the men at the head of the column that were the first into action as the right horn impis crashed forward into the scrub occupied by the Natal troops and a unit of irregular cavalry, driving both units before them as the closed on the Naval troops beyond, being pulled up short as their first volleys hit home.

Orders are coolly issued as the Imperial troops stand too in anticipation of the impending attack
The respite was short as the Zulu commanders sought to put as many units as they could in front of the Imperial troops, judging that it only needed one opportunity of one unit failing to cause sufficient casualties to stop an attack to allow the first impi to engage in hand to hand - a Zulu speciality.

Steady! Use the range markers, that's what they're there for
Not to be left out of the fight the left horn followed some way to their right by Chief Godide leading the main force loins formation raced across the open ground towards the Imperial lines, with Godide's warriors coming under artillery fire as they headed down the slopes.

A mass of deadly intent
Irregular mounted troops take up over watch positions as the wagons are moved into place
The fighting along the road down to the camp was at long range and the Zulu's spread out as best they could to minimise the casualties from the artillery.

The fighting at the head of the column was soon much closer and the volley fire from the infantry was soon joined by the rolling staccato of the Naval gatling gun.

More Zulus advance down the road in support of the right horn attack

The Naval artillery opens fire
The RA and Naval Gun teams had got the range and the exploding shells began to take a toll as more stands of Zulus were removed and impis were forced to go to ground requiring morale checks before resuming their advance, all leading to a longer time under the fire of the Imperial artillery.

The first British shells explode among the fast moving Zulu ranks
The Naval and RA gun teams start to thin out the ranks of advancing warriors as the shells explode among them
As impi after impi began to suffer under the fusillade, the first chink in the Imperial defences were revealed as one of the Zulu regiments prepared to charge in towards the gatling crew.

The British commander (Andy we all know it was you) announced he was going to fire and rolled a d6 to determine how many hits had been achieved. He rolled a one!

Realising this might not be enough to stop the impi charging in, the die was quickly rolled again in the hope of adding to the tally (the gatling gun can roll as many d6 as required, clocking up hits that can be converted into kills with each roll. However if a die result is doubled, i.e. two rolls of any number, the weapon is deemed jammed, requiring a full turn of inaction to un-jam it.) The roll produced another one! This caused, as you can imagine, much glee in Zulu ranks, only to be dampened down with the declaration that the commander was throwing in an initiative chit to have another go, with the added reassurance to other British commanders, "what are the chances of me rolling another one?"

Off course you know what was rolled. You simply cannot go around tempting the dice Gods like that and so the gatling remained jammed and the crew only narrowly escaped destruction but the mighty gatling was abandoned to the oncoming Zulu hoard and Andy went away to work out precisely what were the odds of throwing three ones.

The first Zulus hit the line, bursting from cover as the NNC contingent reels back in terror
The attack on the gatling was soon followed up by a second impi emerging from the scrub and again driving off the NNC contingent leaving the poor old matelot's left flank hanging in the wind. The wind soon brought a Zulu impi smacking into the somewhat surprised sailors who up until then had been enjoying their target practice.

The melee that ensued was quick and bloody with barely a quarter of the Naval contingent making it back behind other Imperial troops in support.

The Royal Artillery make final adjustments to the gatling gun and rocket trough
With their forward position on the ridge unhinged by the Zulu attack, the Imperial troops at the head of the column were forced back down the slope with the need to manhandle their guns giving the Zulus some respite from the harassing shell fire.

The advancing Zulu's appear impervious to the falling shells 
Meanwhile events were unfolding in front of the Imperials camp as the Zulu left horn impis threw themselves at the troops manning the now wagon encircled camp.

First blood went to the Zulus who managed to catch a unit of NNC the wrong side of the barricades and quickly sent the remains of the unit routing back over the river.

The Zulus in the left horn strike the wagon line defenders as NNC defenders come to grips with the attack
The infantry of the 3rd Buffs were, however, made of sterner stuff, or perhaps it was because they were the right side of the barricades.

Either way the crashing volleys stopped the Zulu attack in its tracks and despite a valiant attempt by the warriors on the end of the Zulu line to press their advance the volley fire forced "recoils" and "going to ground" reactions that more than made up for the lack of any Imperial artillery at this end of the line.

The fist volleys from the Imperial troops ring out and stagger the first impis
Things kept getting interesting at the head of the column as with their tails up (excuse the pun) the Zulu head and right horn impis pressed forward, now being subjected to fire from the remaining Imperial guns but an annoying RA rocket launcher that, despite its ability to land anywhere other than where it was aimed, had so far continuously hit the the Zulu warriors.

Now somewhat chastened by the gatling experience the rocket began to take on an even more important role for the British commander in pinning the impis to its front.

Then it happened again, with an unbelievable roll of the scatter die, the rocket ended up back among the remaining Naval gunners and RA rocketeers.

Disaster, as mis-directed  rockets burst among the Naval troops
The battle under full sway, as the head of the Imperial column falls back under the pressure of the attack
Nathan leading the left horn moves more Zulus up to keep pressure on the camp
Both sides had been at it all day, with stops for tea, lunch and tea and cakes. Frankly I don't know how we kept going!

Zulus from the head impis strike the crew of the gatling gun just as it decides to jam - oh dear, never mind
With the head of the column fighting hand to hand, more Zulus press forward to support their comrades
Meanwhile with all the fun and games going on on the extreme flanks of the British line, what about the centre and Chief Godide and his loins (sorry Chas, I couldn't resist that one)?

Well with the Zulu line so extended the Chief followed doctrine and brought his impis in close up to the head formations and the ensuing traffic jam, as Zulu regiments fell over each other trying to plot a course towards the Imperial line, gifted the British artillery a target they could have only dreamed of.

The attack on the camp is held back under withering fire from the defenders
Shell fire falls among the impis attacking the head of the column
The Zulu advance of the reserve "coup de grace" force was subjected to harassing artillery shells that could barely not find a target despite a minimal amount of a scatter. The impis that arrived to confront the Imperial infantry was badly handled by the volley fire that greeted them.

Abandoning the jammed gatling gun, the Naval contingent are caught in the retreat and are decimated
With the reserves of Imperial infantry now aware of the threat to their comrades on the opposite bank and with a secure crossing to allow them to be fed into the line, the opportunity for any other Zulu gains looked bleak.

The RA and Naval gunners are forced to limber up and manhandle their guns back as the Naval troops are almost wiped out in the attack
Mounted contingents move up to support the hard pressed elements at the head of the column
The head of the Imperial column had, through a combination of retreats and skillful withdrawal, that probably saved it from a much worse battle, found a new line at the foot of the slope below the smoking remains of the Zulu village.

As the Zulus mass for a push down the slope, their ranks are subjected to yet more shell fire
The Zulus, as in the historical clash, had paid a terrible price in casualties for the capture of a gatling gun and the few Imperial casualties inflicted on the Naval Contingent.

However after such a fierce engagement and with news of the disaster at Isandlwana to arrive that day it is likely that Colonel Pearson would have settled for garrisoning his forward position and awaiting new orders, whilst the Zulus retired to lick their wounds

Both sides mentally and physically exhausted (and I am not talking about the troops) the two lines glower at each other at game end.
As always, much fun was had by all who attended. Thank you to Chas for organising and pulling another great days entertainment together and to the North Devon Wanderers for all the laughs and banter that accompanied the playing.

Zulu and Imperial Commanders gathered for a post battle picture - Left to Right
JJ, Andy, John, Chas, Nick, Mike, Steve M and Vince. Unfortunately Nathan had to leave before game end
Postscript
My role during the playing of this epic clash was not only as the commander of the "Zulu Head" impis, but also as your reporter for the day and so happily assumed the part played by the late Ronald Lacy as Norris "Noggs" Newman, War Correspondent for the Standard Newspaper, with the directions of Lord Chelmsford ringing in my ears

"just report what you see Noggs."

The late-great Ronald Lacey who played Norris "Noggs" Newman,
the war correspondent for the Standard
Throughout the game during brakes for photo sessions, the model of Noggs would be placed at pertinent places in the game as the pictures were taken to tell this story and serve as a tribute to another great British character actor.

"Noggs" on the front line
So that's it for another year with another North Devon Wanderers (DWG on tour) game played and with plans already afoot for next year. I'm not at liberty to give too much away, but it looks likely to have an ancient theme!