All at Sea - Let's Build a Sloop!

 

If you decide to start making model 1:700th age of sail ships from the Warlord Game collection of models you are likely to end up with quite a few model brigs which you can decide to simply put together as per the instructions, or if you would prefer a little more variety to your small-ship collection, decide to convert a few of them to a flush-deck ship-rigged sloop, sloop-of-war or corvette depending on your preferred terminology.

As a 'Brit', 'Pom', 'Limey' or 'Rosbif', I will tend to use the Royal Navy terminology of the period referring to a sloop or ship-sloop as opposed to the model instructions seen below referring to a brig-sloop, just so we are clear, or as the song goes: 

'you say Tomarto, I say Tomayto, let's call the whole thing off!'

The instruction sheet that comes with the lovely Warlord model brig, showing the sprue that allows the construction of two such models and illustrating why you can end up having a lot of these little ships.

Of course you could choose to wait for Warlord to release their announced new model of a sloop as recently shown on Facebook with a look at the computer designs for the upcoming model.

Two of the planned, eagerly awaited new models from Warlord illustrated recently showing left to right the new 6th rate 20-gun sloop, the 5th rate 36-38-gun frigate, currently available in the plastic range and shown for comparison, the planned 4th rate 50-gun and the 3rd rate 74-gun also available in the plastic range and shown for comparison

However even with the eventual release of this model sloop, this conversion will still allow the collector to field a flush deck variant with a complete single open deck of guns, versus the new model with quarterdeck and forecastle, quite useful if you are building a collection around the US Navy and American and British ship-sloops on the Great Lakes, that tended to have this single gun-deck layout.

This model design for the USS Wasp shows clearly the layout of a typical flush deck sloop that this conversion looks to imitate.
https://scherbakshipmodels.tripod.com/id156.html

Having turned my attention to working on the excess of small ships I have accumulated during the work to build my larger fleets of ships of the line, I decided to add to the sloop conversions I have built previously to allow enough of these useful little ships to model specific historical encounters and cater for some of the other smaller nations such as the Dutch or to have some Early Revolutionary War French versions.

All at Sea - Early Revolutionary War French Frigate & Brig

All at Sea - Revolutionary War Batavian Dutch Frigates & Brig

My first sloop conversions

Since building those first conversions I have had queries posted to me here on the blog and other forums about precisely how these models were built and how to go about it and even the colour schemes I select for them, and so I thought I would attempt to cover off these points as I go through the process of building six sloops which will add to the models I have as outlined above.

Based on the principle that a picture is worth a thousand words, and very often a video only helps the process I have put together a short video tutorial that shows my build process for constructing the sloop from two brig hulls, adding a new mainmast and associated channels and rigging anchor points before finishing with a coat of primer.

The Bonne Citoyenne (captured 1796), a captured French corvette, as taken off at Portsmouth Dockyard prior to being fitted as a 20-gun sixth rate. 
https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/83820.html

In the second post on this build I will showcase the painted and rigged models and discuss how I decide on the look of the models and my colour selection choices, with of course the usual invitation for comment and questions either here on the blog or other forums to help clarify the process and make it as easy for those who want to, to have a go.

For checking out my original basic colour choices you can follow the link to this video clip from when I first reviewed these models and my ideas for using them.

Bases & Paint Colours Used

For Rigging these models just follow the links to my three video tutorials covering standing rigging, British and American running rigging and Other (French, Spanish, other Navies) running rigging.

Standing Rigging

British Running Rigging

French/Spanish Rigging

Apologies for some shaky camera work during the preparation of the hulls and I hope you find the video useful.

Let's Build a Sloop

I have had problems linking the YouTube Video clips from the channel, and can't find a solution as yet.

If you can't see the video links then please follow the link to the JJ's Wargames YouTube Channel where 'Let's Build a Sloop' and all the rigging tutorials can be followed.

More anon 

JJ

All at Sea, Rigging Tutorial Video, Part Three - French & Spanish Running Rigging

This series of rigging tutorials concludes with a look at fixing running rigging on French and Spanish Napoleonic ships.

All at Sea Rigging Tutorial Video - Part One, Standing Rigging

All at Sea Rigging Tutorial Video - Part Two, British Running Rigging

In this final video I demonstrate the fixing of running rigging to a frigate illustrating the difference to that shown in the video looking at the British rig. A little longer than the previous two, I have shown the method for each mast in detail which will hopefully make the process easier to follow.

If you intend using these guides to help you work on your own models you might find the rigging PDF tutorial I produced earlier a useful accompaniment - see the link below

JJ's Wargames - Rigging Tutorial

Next up - More adventures in the land Vassal and Steve and my game of Washington's War, and a booe review looking at the naval war of the American War of Independence

All at Sea, Rigging Tutorial Video, Part Two — British Running Rigging

Following on from the first video looking at fixing the standing rigging to these 1:700th model Napoleonic ships, I finish off the model by rigging it as a British 74-gun ship of the line.

All at Sea Rgging Tutorial Video - Part One, Standing Rigging

Fixing up running rigging to these models can really take them to another level in terms of the visual appeal and help give a great impression of perhaps the most technical war-machine of their age with a seeming myriad of lines allowing the crews to control the ship With sail settings appropriate to the weather and battle conditions.

The diagram pictures in the video should help to map out the route taken with the ends of each line, always starting with the top lifts on each mast as illustrated here on the mizzen

Of course we are not looking to recreate the rigging as a whole, but simply give an impression of it, and this can be achieved by adding the lifts and braces associated with the running as opposed to the standing rigging, covered in part one.

British style running rigging is unique to British and some American ships in that the braces, the lines leading from the ends of each spar or yard, always lead back to a common fixing point behind the mast on which the yard is on.

I have colour coded the route of each line (red-port, and green starboard)

As you will see, the sequence of rigging each mast, starting with the mizzenmast follows a similar pattern with the start point being the creation of the top yard lifts and then leading the ends of the line back to a fixing point and then back to one of the lower yards to create another set of braces and lifts, before bringing both ends of the line to a common fixing point in terms of the foremast or the hull anchoring points on opposite sides of the hull in terms of the mizzen and mainmasts.

In this and the previous video I have made errors in setting some lines, not having rigged any models for over two weeks before starting these, and a process I had got to an unconsciously/competent level of performing, having built lots of ships in the previous months, is now slightly back in the consciously/competent zone, where more thought is required to complete the process without error.

Perhaps that’s not a bad thing as these tutorials will most likely be of most use to beginners in this way of building model age of sail ships and so you will see that if at first you make the occasional error it is easy to replace a line or put one in which was left off.

For more posts looking at my collection of Napoleonic ships, just click on the ‘All at Sea’ tab at the top of the blog which will link you to all my posts in date order. There you will find modelling ideas, painting tips and links to their video briefings, game reports using the models and suggested reading from book reviews on the subject.

Next up, I will finish off this series of tutorials by running through the running rigging on a French frigate which will illustrate the sequencing of the lifts and braces peculiar to the warships of those navies.

All at Sea, Rigging Tutorial Video, Part One - Standing Rigging

The last few weeks of lock-down has been for me a great opportunity to reflect on a lot of things, and like many indulge the time into broadening my hobby.

A few weeks ago I posted about the role blogging performs as part of my own hobby experience and the importance of sharing, by using the platform that blogs can offer to help others get as much out of wargaming as I enjoy.

This got me thinking, in particular about my current theme to build a collection of 1:700th Napoleonic era ships and the learning I have garnered from rigging them in the last nine months.

All at Sea - Rigging Tutorial

It was back in December last year that I put together a PDF on how I go about rigging these models, 

JJ's Wargames - Rigging Tutorial

I know it struck me then, that the one thing a PDF can't show you is the sequence and method of working through, what for many can seem, a complicated and problematic process.

At the moment I am working on a couple of models for a friend from club, Bob, in an effort to give him some reference models to work from when putting his collection together and it struck me as an opportunity to learn some video and editing skills and try to capture the process for YouTube so that it would compliment the instructions in the PDF and perhaps provide a better overall guide.

Putting this, the first of a planned series of three fifteen minute tutorials, has been a steep learning curve using my IPad and IMovie to film and edit my work, first starting with the standing rigging, common to all the ships and navies of the period and then looking at rigging the first model of a 74-gun ship with British pattern running rigging and then to follow that with a third video, looking at a frigate with French/Spanish pattern running rigging.

I hope this will encourage those I have heard from in the process of posting my 'All at Sea' series of posts, who have commented that the rigging process can seem a bit daunting, to see that it is a methodical step-wise process that is quickly learnt after a few models and will give a lot of satisfaction when seeing the results of the finished model, oh and it's really not that difficult.

Enjoy and Bob, I hope you like the models, when you finally get hold of them, but in the meantime you can follow the progress of them getting done.

All at Sea - Rigging Tutorial

The illustrious 'Billy Ruffian', HMS Bellerophon of 74 guns, showing off her stays, backstays, lifts, braces and sheets. It's time to have fun with rigging!

Following my recent posts looking at the Black Seas range of model ships I am building, in a series entitled 'All at Sea', and based on the feedback received, I thought it would be useful to look at the subject of rigging the models, which seems to be a source of complexity that puts some wargamers off collecting these models and bringing them to the table.

All at Sea - Another Project

All at Sea - Strange Sail in Sight

If that is you and you would like to know how to take rigging these kits a bit further than that outlined in the Warlord 'Black Seas' rule book, but perhaps think it's too complicated and not worth worrying about, as certain video reviewers of these kits would like to convince you, but you still think the effect 'looks cool' and perhaps 'if they can, then so can I ', then read on.

If you couldn't care less and are happy just sticking these things together and hopefully slapping some paint on them, please read on and let me see if I can convince you to have a go at this; and if you are not interested in the age of sail and are mildly irritated that I am taking up blog space discussing it, feel free to check in when there is something you find more interesting to read, as this post is definitely not for you.

If you have never rigged a model age of sail ship before, all this talk of stays, sheets, lifts etc can seem a bit daunting and dare I say leave one 'all at sea', and as always, there are plenty of people around, who can't do it, who will tell you not to bother; which is a shame, because it's really straight forward and adds a lot to the look of the model which, in my opinion, is a key attribute of tabletop wargaming, the look or aesthetic of the game, otherwise we might as well just play boardgames!

Oh and on that controversial note, I love boardgaming as well, its just that I don't agree with the  group of hobby commentators that describe tabletop models as just tokens or counters. Sorry chaps, they may be that to you but not everyone, and I know the difference as, I suspect, does everyone else.

Any ability and skill in modelling I have developed over the years has been, in part, down to the time others have spent with me sharing their knowledge and skills and so this is just a case of 'sharing the love' and hopefully passing on what I think is a pretty straightforward modelling technique that can take any of these model ships you build to another level and hopefully add to your enjoyment of playing with them.

Rod Langton's guide book on this subject and more is well worth getting hold of

A no finer example of someone prepared to take time and share their knowledge with fellow enthusiasts is Rod Langton who has been in the business of producing fantastic models, rules and books for the age of sail enthusiast for years now.

I have had the pleasure of chatting with Rod at various shows, in the days when he had just started up his business and used to hand out the free leaflets you see below, later improved upon by the very nice guide book he produced later, as seen above.

This was how we learned about rigging model kits back in the day, before the Internet, mobile phones and global warming!

We are not producing a museum model here, but instead a nice looking model for the wargames table and thus looking to achieve enough of a look that fools the eye into thinking it is seeing the fully rigged out ship when in fact all we are doing, as the Langton book above explains, is

' ... showing the lifts, braces and sheets of the running rigging. Lifts were the lines from the masts to the yard arms. Braces were taken from the yard arms to the next mast in order to be able to trim the sails to the wind. Sheets were used to haul on the lower part of the sail.'

My Langton collection in action in this Suffren v Hughes, Battle of Providien game, run at the Devon Wargames Group in 2014
https://devonwargames.blogspot.com/search/label/Battle%20of%20Providien

I had a bit of a smile to myself, when looking at my old leaflet in my archive, or pile of rubbish as Carolyn calls it, to find the illustration Rod drew for me when explaining how to put on the running rigging with my collection of Langton British and French ships, and indeed this little drawing is what I worked from when I first started rigging ships, which some members of the Devon Wargames Group reckon was about the time Nelson fell.

See what I mean about pre-Internet! I should have got Rod to sign this!

As you might have guessed, I would recommend getting a copy of Rod's book as it includes pretty much all of what I am covering here plus more things, such as painting guides, modelling techniques that are useful whatever scale of ship you are modelling and a good grounding on the different parts that went to make up ships of this period.

http://www.rodlangton.com/

My rigging kit, and all that you will need to get started.

The standing rigging all done on one of the British 74's, showing where to start first

As I have been putting my models together I have been taking a series of pictures that cover the process I use, in the sequence I follow, so that you always start and end up at the same place with each model.

Another shot from the guide illustrating the route plan of the various lines

That means standing rigging first, running rigging by mast starting with the mizzen and ending with the bowsprit sail sets and finally ensigns and pennants.

The joys of British running rigging on the mizzen mast

The standing rigging is standard among the different nations ships but, as you will see, the first part of the briefing focuses on British ships for illustrating running rigging, where the Royal Navy rigged their mizzen and main masts differently to other nations.

Moving on to the main mast, 'ship shape, and Bristol fashion'.

My word Horatio, I think we're done!

For the other nations, I have used the Constitution to illustrate the arrangement and hopefully the guide will be clear, but you never know, and I myself have sometimes come away confused with other attempts at this subject, so will try to clear up any confusions here on the blog, via questions and comments.

Ah the joys of foreign rigging, just when you thought you had this thing well and truly understood.

The key things to consider in mastering this process are:

• Learning to judge how tight to draw a thread without bending or distorting the mast or yard and causing another line that was originally taught to become slack because of the pull you have produced in a different direction. I have learnt that doing some lines last, particularly the top mast lines of the standing rigging, enables me to better judge their tightness after the others are in place.
• Don't worry about the odd bit of superglue misting up the original paintwork as you can normally go back and cover that up with a bit of repainting.

My next rigging job - Three French 74's awaiting their share of the love.

Anyway I hope this will help those interested and you can download the PDF in the link below and it will be in My Resources and Downloads section in the right-hand bar.

JJ's Wargames - Rigging Tutorial

Happy rigging

JJ

King Joseph & Marshal Jourdan Video Clip - Talavera 208

As an addendum to my previous post and as the saying goes 'a picture is often worth a thousand words' and perhaps some moving ones are worth a few more, I offer up a video clip of my recent work with some painting ideas to go with it.

First up I should say that I was prompted at having a go at this by Mr Paul Alba who is a bit of a 'dab hand' at at this kind of stuff and as mentioned in the comments around the Joseph post, I benefited from Paul's useful video clip of some of his own command groups - see the link below.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=reIimxMhQUs

I can see some distinct advantages displaying figures using this medium perhaps in future alongside the stills photography. To save you commenting, I will do the two together in future, when I have my lighting set up, to give you a better chance at seeing the detail clearly.

'Rafa's book', referred to in my commentary, is referring to Rafael Perez' excellent edition of "Painting War - French Army" which I reviewed back in July 2014 and constantly refer to when working on my own French collection.

http://jjwargames.blogspot.co.uk/2014/07/painting-war-napoleonic-french-army.html

Other colour combinations I tried out for the first time came from Rafa's recommendations including the red tunics and saddle-cloths in this particular group. All I can say is, if you want to develop your own techniques pick up a copy of this really useful reference.

One other reference I would particularly recommend getting hold of, are the collection of Rousselot plates. I have originals published back in the 70's by Historex and I treasure them as a resource above many others.

The main aspect I find particularly useful is the level of detail Rousselot goes into that really allows the painter to work out what is what when looking at a figure and importantly the colour options to choose

http://www.napoleon-series.org/reviews/uniforms/c_rousselot.html
http://www.napoleon-series.org/reviews/uniforms/c_rousselot2.html
http://www.napoleon-series.org/reviews/uniforms/c_ryan.html

If you have enjoyed viewing and reading this post then add to your enjoyment by popping over to the "Talavera 208 Just Giving" page using the link below and make any contribution you care to, towards a great cause, Combat Stress, and enjoy the warm feeling that will come knowing you have added to the good in the world; not to mention the thrill when you see these command bases in action in 2017, and a message from me thanking you for your support. After all we are in that season when giving is what it's all about.

Cheers all 

JJ

Just Giving - Talavera208

British Infantry Painting Tutorial - PDF

As with the French Line infantry Painting Tutorial, I have captured the key stuff in an easy to reference PDF that will be handy if, like me, you keep a lot of this stuff on a tablet for easy reference. Even if you don't use a tablet, then this should be easier than constantly referring back to the blog.

Just look under My Resources and Downloads in the right column for the link.
Enjoy, and good painting.

British Line Infantry Painting Tutorial - Part Three

The Victrix illustration shows the shading
approach I want in the final look

British Line Infantry Painting Tutorial Part One

British Line Infantry Painting Tutorial Part Two

Finally the final stage where by adding a small amount of a lighter shade we can achieve greater depth to the colour already applied and help accentuate the detail on an 18mm figure that can start to compete with a larger scale.

I tend to differentiate the better quality jackets on my officers versus the ordinary ranks by using a not quite so orange option in "Vallejo Scarlet".

To accentuate the  roundness of the water canteens I tend to just apply the Vallejo Pastel Blue just to the inner disc, leaver the darker blues around the edge

The Dark Grey can really accentuate the lines of the black equipment and give it a worn appearance. As you can see the other shades and the matt varnish have removed the sheen from the Humbrol base coat.

Use of gold and silver can add brightness to the metal work, and I like to make Shako plates, bayonets and cross belt plates "sing out" a bit.

So that's the 61st Foot completed. I just need to get them based up and then we can have a look at the battalion ready for battle and a bit about its history.

One thing I have noticed that I will touch up prior to basing, and no prizes for those who spotted it, is to add a bit of "Vajello Silver to the top edges of the officers collars and a little for the cuff lace.

As with the French, I will capture this information in a follow up PDF.

British Line Infantry Painting Tutorial - Part Two

Officers of the 31st Foot at Albuera, a similarly buff faced silver laced regiment to the 61st.
Note the buff cross belts and turn-backs seen sported instead of the usual white. 

British Line Infantry Painting Tutorial Part One

So on with part two of this three part tutorial and on with the first highlight. As a reminder, the colour manufacturer code is VJ = Vallejo, CD = Coat d'Arms, H = Humbrol, CT = Citadel. Oh and by the way you've just got to love the names of the new Citadel range, I mean "Pink Horror" and "Emperor's Child", really?

As I mentioned in the tutorial on French infantry, the brush you use is critical in getting the best results and you really do need a brush that will hold its tip in spite of the thrashing it will get over time. You can check out my recommendation here,

http://jjwargames.blogspot.co.uk/2013/04/tamiyas-small-pointed-brush-update.html

This need for a good brush is illustrated in the first highlight I tend to apply which is the Citadel Kislev Flesh. These AB figures have exquisite detail and with careful application you can highlight above the top lip under the nose to bring out that detail - only with a good brush.

One thing I didn't include in the block work from part one, put it down to my age, is the Coat d'Arm Dark Grey applied to the musket slings, which I applied after I had written up the post. I tend to highlight the white lace areas and white straps with Vajello Ivory, and you will see I have started to so the back packs and musket slings, bit have left off the jacket lace. This is because I want to apply the third highlight to the tunic before adding the lace.

Likewise on the Colonel's jacket there is a great set of silver buttons to highlight but I will do those last.

Just with the first basic highlights you can see the depth created to the colours, particularly the black items, shako, back pack, ammunition pouch, scabbards and boots. I often see requests from people to find a good colour to highlight black and the Vajello Dark Sea Blue is a perfect first option.

Remember a highlight is just that and we are not looking to cover up the original base colour but accentuate the top surface where the light strikes and draws the eye to it.

I am quite pleased with the horse tone and wash and think it does produce a lighter effect. I think I will experiment with different shades of wash just to see what the potential is.

I have just noticed that I could have done the straps on the Colonels saddle roll, but will pick it up on the third highlight phase.

So there we are, next up it's time to make these chaps pop and come alive with a third and final colour choice.